The ancient stone paths above the lake
Step off the train at Varenna-Esino-Perledo and the mountains already call. Ten minutes' walk brings you to the main square, Piazzale Martiri della Libertà, where Lake Como spreads out before you in shades of blue and grey. A small sign on Via Venini points uphill: "Esino Lario, 2h30'". The asphalt lasts barely 300 metres before the cobblestones take over — ancient, uneven, worn smooth by centuries of footsteps. You are walking the same stones that Esino's farmers once crossed with mule-loads of goods bound for the Varenna market.
The Varenna to Esino Lario hike covers 6.5km with 550m of elevation gain. It is one of the most scenic and least crowded trails above Lake Como — and one of the best-kept secrets in the entire region. Most tourists in Varenna never look up. Those who do find themselves in a chestnut forest that turns gold in autumn, on cobblestone paths that lead to a mountain village where time moves slowly and the view from the main square stretches all the way to the Bellagio promontory. Plan for a 2h30' ascent; the descent back takes about 1h45', or you can return by bus.
Getting to the starting point
Varenna is easily reached by train from across Lombardy. No car needed — in fact, in high season the Varenna car park often fills up. The train is the ideal option: start from Varenna on foot, ascend to Esino, and return by bus.
Frequency: approximately hourly on weekdays, every 2h on weekends.
No change required.
Alternative: lake ferry from Como Lungo Lario.
The ferry is slower but wonderfully scenic.
Around 6–8 trains per day; more frequent on weekdays.
Timetables at trenord.it or the Trenord app.
From Varenna-Esino-Perledo station to Piazzale Martiri della Libertà (hike starting point): 10 minutes on foot, a gentle uphill walk through the village. Car parking is available near the station, but on July and August weekends it fills before 9:00 AM.
The route step by step
What to do in Esino Lario
Esino Lario is not just the destination of the climb — it is an authentic mountain village with its own history, Triassic fossils, and trails leading to the Grigna. After the walk, there is much to discover.
Everything you want to know
Getting back to Varenna after the ascent
Three options for returning to Varenna. The most convenient is the SP62 bus, which in high season runs on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
| Day | Departure from Esino | Arrival in Varenna | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Friday | ~14:30 / ~17:00 | ~15:00 / ~17:30 | Check ASST Lecco SP62 |
| Saturday | ~10:30 / ~14:30 / ~17:00 | ~11:00 / ~15:00 / ~17:30 | More departures in high season |
| Sunday | ~10:30 / ~14:30 / ~17:30 | ~11:00 / ~15:00 / ~18:00 | Check summer/winter timetable |
| Mon–Thu | Limited service | — | School/service bus — not for tourists |
⚠️ Times shown are approximate. Always check the latest timetables on the ASST Lecco website or at the village before setting out. Ticket price: approx. €2.50.
The Sentiero del Viandante — upper variant
The mule tracks climbing from Varenna to Esino are not merely a hiking route: they form one of the historic variants of the Sentiero del Viandante, the ancient medieval road that ran along the eastern shore of Lake Como from Lecco to the valleys of the Adda and Mera. Because the cliffs drop sheer to the water between Mandello and Bellano, the medieval road was forced to climb towards Ortanella (a hamlet of Esino Lario) before descending again towards Vezio and back down to the lake.
When you walk these cobblestones, you are retracing the steps of medieval merchants, Napoleonic soldiers, and nineteenth-century geologists heading to the Grigna fossil deposits. The Torre di Esino — a 12th-century defensive tower at 950m — was part of the watchtower network guarding this passage. A short detour towards Sciorcasela still lets you see it today.