The route
The ancient stone paths above the lake
Logistics
Getting to the starting point
Varenna is easily reached by train from across Lombardy. No car needed — in fact, in high season the Varenna car park often fills up. The train is the ideal option: start from Varenna on foot, ascend to Esino, and return by bus.
From Milan
Milano Centrale → Varenna-Esino
Trenord, Milan–Tirano line (Lecco–Colico).
Frequency: approximately hourly on weekdays, every 2h on weekends.
No change required.
Frequency: approximately hourly on weekdays, every 2h on weekends.
No change required.
⏱ ~1h 20'
From Como
Como S. Giovanni → Varenna
Change at Lecco (Trenord regional trains).
Alternative: lake ferry from Como Lungo Lario.
The ferry is slower but wonderfully scenic.
Alternative: lake ferry from Como Lungo Lario.
The ferry is slower but wonderfully scenic.
⏱ ~1h 15' (train)
From Lecco
Lecco → Varenna-Esino
Direct, no change. Trenord Lecco–Tirano line.
Around 6–8 trains per day; more frequent on weekdays.
Timetables at trenord.it or the Trenord app.
Around 6–8 trains per day; more frequent on weekdays.
Timetables at trenord.it or the Trenord app.
⏱ ~30'
From Varenna-Esino-Perledo station to Piazzale Martiri della Libertà (hike starting point): 10 minutes on foot, a gentle uphill walk through the village. Car parking is available near the station, but on July and August weekends it fills before 9:00 AM.
Detailed guide
The route step by step
🏔️
[Photo: panorama of mule track through chestnut forest]
1
220 m a.s.l. · Start
Varenna Perledo — Piazzale Martiri della Libertà → Via Venini
Walk from the station to Varenna centre (10 min). In the square, follow Via Venini following "Esino Lario" signs or CAI red-and-white waymarks. The first 300 metres are on asphalt through the village. There is also a café and a small grocery store here — your last chance to stock up on water before the trail.
Tip: buy water and snacks in Varenna — there are no shops or fountains on the route until Esino.
2
220–500 m a.s.l. · Steepest section
The climb through the chestnut forest — 400m elevation gain in 3km
As soon as the asphalt ends, the cobbled mule track begins, steep almost immediately. The chestnut forest (and higher up, hornbeam and sessile oak) covers the route and offers shade even in summer. The stones are broad and well-laid but uneven — hiking shoes with non-slip soles are essential, especially after rain. Average gradient in this section exceeds 12%.
The toughest stretch. Walk at a steady rhythm and don't push too hard in the first 20 minutes. Short breaks every 20–25 minutes help manage the effort.
3
~850 m a.s.l. · Scenic turning point
Passo del Lupo — first views of Lake Como
Around the 3km mark, the forest opens suddenly on a spectacular viewpoint: Lake Como appears in full length, with the Bellagio promontory visible in the distance and the villages of the western shore reflected in the water. Passo del Lupo marks the end of the steepest section and the boundary between Perledo and Esino Lario. The gradient eases considerably from here.
The best spot for a long break with a sandwich and lake views. Shield yourself from the wind if it comes from the north.
4
850–900 m a.s.l. · Landscape change
The plateau above Perledo — pastures and open meadows
After Passo del Lupo the landscape transforms completely: dense forest gives way to open meadows, lichen-covered dry-stone walls and abandoned agricultural terraces. The sound of the wind replaces that of the stream. In spring these meadows are covered with gentians and alpine primroses; in autumn the colours of the chestnuts below and the beeches above create a spectacular contrast. The trail is well marked and the gradient moderate.
5
900–914 m a.s.l. · Arrival
Entering Esino Lario — 914m, village centre
The mule track meets an asphalt road near the first buildings of Esino Lario. The village appears gradually: first the outlying houses, then the church bell tower, then the village square with its bar, the Museo delle Grigne and views of the Grigna Settentrionale and Meridionale. You are at 914 metres above sea level, at the gateway to the Parco Regionale della Grigna Settentrionale. The route is complete.
Beer, lunch, coffee: the Bar-Ristoro Esino is 2 minutes on foot from the village entrance. Worth a visit to the Museo delle Grigne too (Triassic fossils, free admission).
Once you've arrived
What to do in Esino Lario
Esino Lario is not just the destination of the climb — it is an authentic mountain village with its own history, Triassic fossils, and trails leading to the Grigna. After the walk, there is much to discover.
Culture · Science
Museo delle Grigne
Triassic fossils from 240 million years ago, collected from the Grigna rocks. An extraordinary collection, free admission. Perfect for families.
→ Explore the museum
Sport · Adventure
E-bike · 22km Circuit
You're already in Esino — rent an e-bike in the village and ride the 22km circuit between the Grigna and the lake. The mule tracks + e-bike combination is the perfect day out.
→ Circuit guide
Hiking
Alpe Cainallo (1400m)
From Esino, it's 1 hour to Alpe Cainallo: 360° views of the lake and Grigne, alpine refreshment stop. The natural extension of the day for those with legs to spare.
→ Alpe Cainallo
Food
Where to eat in Esino
From the polenta dish at Ristoro Esino to the sandwiches at the village square bar: the complete guide on where to eat well after the hike.
→ Restaurant guide
Frequently asked questions
Everything you want to know
ENHow long is the hike from Varenna to Esino Lario?
The hike is 6.5km one-way with 550m (1,800ft) of elevation gain. Most walkers complete the ascent in 2h30' at an easy pace with short breaks. Fast hikers can do it in under 2 hours. Allow 3 hours if you're bringing children or are new to hiking. The descent on the same trail takes about 1h45'.
ENIs the Varenna to Esino Lario hike difficult?
The hike is rated moderate (E/EE on the Italian CAI scale — equivalent to a moderate trail in international terms). The first 3km are steep, with 400m of elevation gain on old cobblestones. The second half is easier. Good hiking shoes with grip are essential — sneakers are not suitable, especially after rain. The trail is well marked and easy to follow. Children aged 10+ with some trail experience can manage it.
ENWhat to bring for the hike from Varenna to Esino Lario?
Essential items: hiking shoes with non-slip soles (cobblestones are slippery when wet — this is non-negotiable), at least 1.5L of water per person (there are no fountains on the trail), snacks or lunch, sunscreen and a hat for the lower exposed sections, a light windproof layer for the summit, and a fully charged phone with an offline map (e.g. Maps.me or komoot). Trekking poles are recommended for the descent. Leave heavy items in your car or the station locker.
ENHow do I get back to Varenna from Esino Lario?
Three options: 1) Bus D21 from Esino Lario to Varenna (~30 min, approx. €2.50) — runs on Friday, Saturday, Sunday and public holidays in high season (April–October); check current timetables on ASST Lecco or at the village. 2) Walk back down on the same mule tracks — 1h45', the reverse route. 3) E-bike from Ristoro Esino (12km of asphalt on the SP62 road, not on the mule tracks). The most enjoyable combination: hike up on foot, return by bus with lunch in the village.
ENIs the trail open year-round?
The trail is technically accessible year-round, but in winter (December–February) the section above 800m can be icy and slippery, making the cobblestones very dangerous. The ideal season is April to October. Best months are April–May (fresh green, mild temperatures) and September–October (autumn colours, no heat, fewer crowds). In summer, set off by 9:00 AM to avoid the heat on the lower sun-exposed sections.
ENWhere do I park in Varenna to start the hike?
The main car park is near Varenna-Esino-Perledo railway station. There is also a paid car park along the Esino riverbank. However, in high season (July–August and May/June weekends) both fill up before 9:00 AM. The advice is to come by train: from Milano Centrale it is ~1h20', from Lecco ~30'. You do not need a car for any part of this hike.
Return
Getting back to Varenna after the ascent
Three options for returning to Varenna. The most convenient is the D21 bus, which in high season runs on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
| Day | Departure from Esino | Arrival in Varenna | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Friday | ~14:30 / ~17:00 | ~15:00 / ~17:30 | Check ASST Lecco SP62 |
| Saturday | ~10:30 / ~14:30 / ~17:00 | ~11:00 / ~15:00 / ~17:30 | More departures in high season |
| Sunday | ~10:30 / ~14:30 / ~17:30 | ~11:00 / ~15:00 / ~18:00 | Check summer/winter timetable |
| Mon–Thu | Limited service | — | School/service bus — not for tourists |
⚠️ Times shown are approximate. Always check the latest timetables on the ASST Lecco website or at the village before setting out. Ticket price: approx. €2.50.
Bus D21 (recommended) — ~30 min, ~€2.50. Comfortable and scenic along the panoramic SP62 road. Only downside: mainly runs at weekends.
Walk back down — 1h45' on the same mule tracks. Reverse route, faster on the descent. Watch out for wet stones and uneven ground — your knees will feel the descent more than the ascent.
E-bike from Ristoro — Rent an e-bike in Esino (Ristoro Esino, Via Bigallo 2, tel. +39 335 292220) and descend on the SP62 (12km of asphalt). Do not use the mule tracks with a bike — the surface is not suitable. Book the day before on weekends.
History
The Sentiero del Viandante — upper variant
The mule tracks climbing from Varenna to Esino are not merely a hiking route: they form one of the historic variants of the Sentiero del Viandante, the ancient medieval road that ran along the eastern shore of Lake Como from Lecco to the valleys of the Adda and Mera. Because the cliffs drop sheer to the water between Mandello and Bellano, the medieval road was forced to climb towards Ortanella (a hamlet of Esino Lario) before descending again towards Vezio and back down to the lake.
When you walk these cobblestones, you are retracing the steps of medieval merchants, Napoleonic soldiers, and nineteenth-century geologists heading to the Grigna fossil deposits. The Torre di Esino — a 12th-century defensive tower at 950m — was part of the watchtower network guarding this passage. A short detour towards Sciorcasela still lets you see it today.
🏰 Recommended detour: Castello di Vezio (Perledo, 15 min from the main mule track) is a Norman tower from the 12th century with stunning lake views. Seasonal opening.